The quiet work behind a mukut

Kundan setting at the Shringar atelier

A kundan mukut is built up in layers, and almost all of the work happens before anything visible is set.

The frame

The frame is shaped and annealed first. Everything that follows depends on it holding its curve, so this stage takes longer than the setting does.

Setting the stones

Kundan is set with refined gold foil worked cold around each stone. There is no adhesive and no claw; the metal itself holds the stone.

A single mukut can take several days at this stage, and it cannot be rushed without the settings loosening later.

Finishing

The piece is cleaned, checked against the poshak it was made for, and only then released. Where a stone sits proud or a setting is uneven, the mukut goes back rather than out.